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Adding Quiet Bottom Fans to the Victron MultiPlus-II

I installed two custom 3D-printed bottom fans with a temperature controller and a buck converter to quietly cool my Victron MultiPlus-II before the loud original fan starts.

By RobbertPosted

Victron multiplus stille fan mod. #victron #3dprinten

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7k views on YouTube · Open on YouTube (Robbert DIY projects)

The Victron MultiPlus-II has very loud fans when it needs to work hard. To fix this, I decided to add two extra fans in the bottom cover of the unit. Because this cover is removable, this modification does not void the warranty.

The extra fans run quietly to create a constant airflow through the unit. When the MultiPlus gets warm, the controller speeds them up to actively cool the unit before the original noisy fan even needs to turn on.

Steps

  1. Step 1: Gathering materials and planning the build

    To start this project, I need a few specific parts and tools. I am using a 3D-print model, a buck converter to step down 48V from the battery pack to 12V, a fan controller with a temperature sensor, and two 80 mm fans.

    I can choose between cheap standard 12V fans or PWM PC fans. I chose fancy LED fans so the bottom of the MultiPlus glows blue and I can visually see when they turn on.

    • 3D-print model

    • Buck converter

    • Fan controller

    • 80 mm fans

    What I used

    ItemAmountNotes
    3D-print model1free to download from the description
    Buck converter1steps down 48V to 12V
    Fan controller1includes a temperature sensor
    80 mm fans2LED fans with screws included
  2. Step 2: Assembling the fans into the 3D-printed frame

    First, I print the 3D model that fits inside the bottom cap of the MultiPlus. I check the arrow on the side of each fan to make sure the air blows into the unit, because we want to draw cool outside air in.

    I screw the fans into the 3D-printed frame using three screws each, leaving two screw holes free so I can use those same screws later to mount the entire unit inside the MultiPlus cap.

    What I used

    ItemAmountNotes
    3D-printed frame1holds two fans
    Fan screws6 totalthree per fan
  3. Step 3: Modifying the fan controller for standard 12V fans

    If you use PWM fans, you can skip this step. Since I use cheap 12V fans, I need to modify the fan controller board with an extra TIP120 transistor and a 2.2 kOhm resistor to send out the proper PWM signal.

    I fold the middle pin of the transistor backward, the left pin 90 degrees to the left, and leave the right pin straight. Then I solder the resistor between the PWM output pin and the base of the transistor, and connect the power wires.

    What I used

    ItemAmountNotes
    TIP120 transistor1pins bent for modification
    2.2 kOhm resistor1soldered to the transistor
  4. Step 4: Understanding PWM power pulsing and fan handling

    PWM stands for pulse width modulation, which means the power is pulsed on and off extremely fast. If you set a PWM value of 90 percent, the power is on for 90 percent of the time and off for 10 percent. This rapid switching is why the original Victron fan makes so much noise because you hear that low frequency in the motor.

    Cheap fans handle this pulsing a lot better without making that annoying humming sound. Our modified circuit switches the fans on and off at high speed to control their speed quietly.

  5. Step 5: Installing and wiring the buck converter

    I place the buck converter with the output facing left into its designated rails where it fits precisely. Then I solder the positive and negative input and output wires to the board.

    The buck converter takes 48V from the battery and converts it to a steady 12V to power the fans and the controller.

    What I used

    ItemAmountNotes
    Buck converter1placed in rails
    Wire1 setfor plus and minus connections
  6. Step 6: Configuring the fan controller settings

    I connect a temporary 12V power supply to test the controller. The red dip switches allow me to adjust the minimum fan speed and temperature thresholds.

    With all dip switches off, the minimum speed is 20 percent, which keeps the fans dead silent while maintaining a light airflow. Switches 2 and 3 control the temperature range where the fans start speeding up.

    Dip Switch 2 and 3Start Speed TemperatureMax Speed Temperature
    Both OFF35 deg C45 deg C
    TP1 ON40 deg C55 deg C
    TP2 ON50 deg C70 deg C
    Both ON60 deg C90 deg C

    What I used

    ItemAmountNotes
    Temporary 12V power supply1for bench testing
  7. Step 7: Setting up dip switches for a stall alarm buzzer

    Switches 4 and 5 control the stall alarm feature. If one of your fans gets blocked or stops working, a buzzer will start beeping immediately to warn you.

    To use this feature, you connect the buzzer included in your package directly to the board. I am not going to use this alarm for my setup, but the option is there if you want extra safety.

  8. Step 8: Testing the temperature response

    To test the automatic response, I hold a warm soldering iron near the temperature sensor. The LED lights on the fans grow brighter as it measures higher heat, and the fans spin up to full speed.

    When I remove the heat source and the sensor cools down, the fans automatically slow back down to idle speed. This setup allows the MultiPlus to fully monitor and cool itself.

    What I used

    ItemAmountNotes
    Soldering iron1used as a heat source for testing
  9. Step 9: Mounting the fan assembly into the MultiPlus bottom cover

    I take the two screws we saved earlier and insert them through the bottom cap into the inner holes of the 3D-printed fan frame. Because they are neat black screws from the fan set, they do not stand out.

    The assembly is now firmly screwed into the cover without hitting any other electronics inside the MultiPlus. From the outside, the appearance does not change except for the blue LED light shining from underneath.

    What I used

    ItemAmountNotes
    Saved fan screws2used to secure frame to cover
  10. Step 10: Connecting the main power and finishing up

    Finally, I connect the power cable to the input of the buck converter to feed it with 48V from the system. The modification is very subtle and not directly visible from the outside unless you use LED fans.

    The MultiPlus is now continuously cooled by a gentle airflow, and the fans spin up actively when it gets warm, hopefully before the original loud fan kicks in.

    What I used

    ItemAmountNotes
    Power cable1feeds 48V to the buck converter
  11. Step 11: Call to action for comments and ideas

    I hope this video was useful for you and gives you a good way to keep your system cool. Please let me know what you think of this modification in the comments below.

    If you have any more ideas or suggestions, drop them in the comments too. I am happy with every remark and it makes it fun to keep making these projects for you.

  12. Step 12: Takeaways

    • Adding two bottom fans helps cool the Victron MultiPlus-II quietly.

    • Using the removable bottom cover ensures the warranty is not voided.

    • A buck converter steps down 48V from the battery pack to 12V.

    • A transistor and resistor modification allows cheap 12V fans to work with PWM control.

    • Temperature thresholds can be configured using dip switches on the controller.

Everything I used

ItemAmountNotes
3D-print model1free to download from the description
Buck converter1 + 1steps down 48V to 12V; placed in rails
Fan controller1includes a temperature sensor
80 mm fans2LED fans with screws included
3D-printed frame1holds two fans
Fan screws6 totalthree per fan
TIP120 transistor1pins bent for modification
2.2 kOhm resistor1soldered to the transistor
Wire1 setfor plus and minus connections
Temporary 12V power supply1for bench testing
Soldering iron1used as a heat source for testing
Saved fan screws2used to secure frame to cover
Power cable1feeds 48V to the buck converter

Project Result

The cooling system runs quietly alongside the original fan, providing extra airflow without voiding the warranty. Let me know what you think in the comments and drop any ideas you have.

Questions from YouTube viewers

Asked in the comments under the video, answered by Robbert.

Can I buy the 3D printed fan holder from you?

I do not keep these parts in stock, but I provide links to the parts and free 3D models in the video description.

Did you add these fans because you were experiencing serious overheating issues?

I did not have heat problems, but when the units work hard they get warmer, which triggers the loud internal fan. I installed these extra fans to reduce or prevent that noise.

Is it necessary to connect the ground on the power distributor in this setup?

I have not connected it yet in my setup, but the grounding provides a fault current path for safety, creates a common zero-reference point for accurate DC measurements, and is often needed in mobile installations for RCD operation.

Where did you mount the temperature sensor and how do you power it?

I extended the temperature sensor and taped it to the ring transformer using kapton tape, or you can use a longer cable with a solder or a JST extension cable. The 48V power supply can be taken from anywhere in your system, either internally in the MultiPlus or from the busbar.

How does the MultiPlus trigger the cooling fans, and can the temperature threshold be adjusted?

The MultiPlus controls the fan based on both internal temperature and load. During continuous charging or discharging loads above 2kW, it turns on the main fan as a precaution. I am looking into whether this can be adjusted so that the extra bottom fans keep it cool enough to set the threshold higher, letting the main fan act only as a backup.

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