Build · Home battery

Building a Home Battery Setup and Pre-Charging MultiPlus

I installed the first battery pack into the steel cabinet, wired the cables to the Lynx distributor using a hydraulic crimp tool, and safely pre-charged the MultiPlus capacitors with a 60V bulb before powering the system on.

By RobbertPosted

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Welcome back to my home battery build video series where I take you step by step through what I do right, what I do wrong, and what we can all learn from. The three MultiPlus units, the Lynx busbar, and the Cerbo are already mounted on the wall with the cables neatly tucked away in cable ducts. An extra main switch and a 25 A residual current circuit breaker are also installed to keep things safe and controllable.

Today I am adding the first battery pack to the storage cabinet underneath the inverters and connecting it to the busbar. Because the MultiPlus capacitors are completely empty, connecting them directly would cause a huge energy surge that could damage cables, fuses, or the BMS. I will show you how to use a 60V incandescent light bulb to pre-charge the capacitors and prevent a massive spark.

Steps

  1. Step 1: Reviewing current setup and safety components

    The three MultiPlus units, the Lynx busbar, and the Cerbo are all mounted on the wall with the cables neatly tucked into cable ducts. I installed an extra main switch at the top so I can safely cut off the power coming from the meter cupboard. Next to it is a 25 A residual current circuit breaker to protect the cable between the shed and the meter cupboard.

    The MultiPlus units are connected with 70 mm square cables, which many consider too thick for this setup, but I prefer cables a bit too thick rather than too thin. I will also use a thermal camera to check for any hot spots or warm cables beforehand.

    What I used

    ItemAmountNotes
    MultiPlus unit3Mounted on the wall
    Cerbo1Connected
    Main switch1Placed at the top
    Residual current circuit breaker125 A
    Cablemultiple70 mm square
  2. Step 2: Custom components and battery cabinet adjustment

    The shunt is homemade using a 3D printer, which saved a lot of money while keeping the same quality to calculate current flow. The distribution is also a modified power in unit that lacks indicator lights for blown fuses, and the Victron Mega fuses will later be replaced by EF3 fuses. The battery cabinet stores the battery packs built in earlier videos.

    However, the battery pack became too wide with the cables on top, making the BMS on the side unreachable, so I moved the BMS to the front of the box.

    What I used

    ItemAmountNotes
    Shunt13D printed
    Power in distribution1Modified
    Mega fusemultipleVictron, to be replaced by EF3 fuses
    BMS1Moved to the front
  3. Step 3: Drilling cable holes in the steel cabinet

    I need to run the battery cables outside the closed cabinet by drilling a couple of holes in the top. To prevent the metal from cutting the cables and causing a short circuit, I will equip the holes with 3D-printed protection rings and rubber printed caps. The battery pack is already heavy and inside the cabinet, so I must be extremely careful not to let any metal splinters fall into the battery pack while drilling.

    What I used

    ItemAmountNotes
    Protection ring23D printed
    Rubber printed cap2For cable protection
  4. Step 4: Routing negative and positive cables

    With the holes ready, I start cabling by routing the negative power cable from the bottom of the cabinet through the hole, up the cable duct, and to the bottom of the Lynx busbar. I do the exact same thing for the positive cable, running it via the other hole and behind the cabinet into the cable duct. The battery cables enter the top of the cabinet, run down the side, and connect to the battery poles at the bottom.

    My fuse holders double as battery poles for both positive and negative, which is an extra piece of safety for my peace of mind.

    What I used

    ItemAmountNotes
    Negative cable1Routed through cable duct to busbar
    Positive cable1Routed behind cabinet to busbar
  5. Step 5: Stripping and crimping cable lugs

    To connect the cables to the power in, I measure the jacket depth, strip a piece of the cable, and insert it into a claw cable lug with no stray wires sticking out. I use a hydraulic crimping tool bought from AliExpress, which is a super nice and cheap tool that does the job perfectly. I close the valve on the tool, pump it until it tightly wraps around the lug, and then open the valve to release a neat crimped lug.

    I skip using a shrink sleeve for this video demonstration and just set it up without one.

    What I used

    ItemAmountNotes
    Cable lugmultipleClaw type
    Hydraulic crimping tool1From AliExpress
  6. Step 6: Connecting cables to the Lynx busbar and battery pack

    I use a 13 mm socket to loosen the bolts on the power in, place the negative cable directly on the main carrier without washers or nuts in between, and add a washer, spring washer, and nut. Viewers in the comments always debate the exact names of these washers, which led to some funny discussions. I tighten the nut with the socket and recommend using a torque wrench.

    Next, I cut the negative cable to length at the bottom of the cabinet, crimp another lug on it, and connect it to the battery pack negative terminal through the BMS. I repeat the exact same process for the positive cable.

    What I used

    ItemAmountNotes
    Socket 13 mm1For loosening and tightening bolts
    WashermultipleUsed on terminals
    Spring washermultipleUsed on terminals
    NutmultipleUsed on terminals
    Torque wrench1Recommended for final tightening
  7. Step 7: Pre-charging the MultiPlus capacitors with a bulb

    The MultiPlus units currently have zero voltage because their internal capacitors are completely empty. Connecting the battery directly would send a massive energy surge, potentially damaging cables, fuses, or the BMS, so the units must be pre-charged the first time. The busbar reads 0V, while the battery reads 51.2V.

    I made a simple pre-charge tool using a small lamp fitting, two crocodile clip wires, and a 60V 10W incandescent light bulb that acts as a resistor. I connect one crocodile clip to the negative fuse and touch the positive cable with the other clip through the bulb, which makes the bulb light up and slowly charges the capacitors without causing a loud spark.

    Once the voltage rises safely, I connect the positive cable directly to the battery pack without any sparks.

    What I used

    ItemAmountNotes
    Incandescent light bulb160V, 10W
    Lamp fitting with crocodile clips1Homemade pre-charge tool
  8. Step 8: Powering on the MultiPlus units

    Now that all the cables are securely attached without pulling any sparks, power is supplied to the MultiPlus units. I flip the front switch forward, and I see all the indicator lights start blinking to show they are turning on. Before doing anything else, I need to adjust and update the firmware, which is a great topic for the next video to keep things concise and focused.

    What I used

    ItemAmountNotes
    MultiPlus unit3Powered on
  9. Step 9: Takeaways

    • Always protect drilled holes in steel cabinets with rings to prevent cable damage.

    • A hydraulic crimping tool from AliExpress makes solid and clean cable lugs.

    • Pre-charging empty inverter capacitors with a 60V bulb prevents dangerous sparks and protects equipment.

    • Updating the firmware is the necessary next step before configuring the system further.

Everything I used

ItemAmountNotes
MultiPlus unit3 + 3Mounted on the wall; Powered on
Cerbo1Connected
Main switch1Placed at the top
Residual current circuit breaker125 A
Cablemultiple70 mm square
Shunt13D printed
Power in distribution1Modified
Mega fusemultipleVictron, to be replaced by EF3 fuses
BMS1Moved to the front
Protection ring23D printed
Rubber printed cap2For cable protection
Negative cable1Routed through cable duct to busbar
Positive cable1Routed behind cabinet to busbar
Cable lugmultipleClaw type
Hydraulic crimping tool1From AliExpress
Socket 13 mm1For loosening and tightening bolts
WashermultipleUsed on terminals
Spring washermultipleUsed on terminals
NutmultipleUsed on terminals
Torque wrench1Recommended for final tightening
Incandescent light bulb160V, 10W
Lamp fitting with crocodile clips1Homemade pre-charge tool

System Powered On

The battery pack and the MultiPlus units are successfully connected and powered on without any sparks. In the next video, I will work on updating the firmware.

Questions from YouTube viewers

Asked in the comments under the video, answered by Robbert.

Is the sparking normal when connecting the inverter, and how can it be prevented?

Yes, that is normal. The multiplus has capacitors that load within milliseconds when the battery is connected, which causes the spark. Other inverters might not have this. Using a light bulb in series acts as a resistor, causing the capacitors to load slowly instead of directly, preventing sparks and improving lifespan.

How do you disconnect the battery from the inverter without causing a spark, and do you use switches or fuses?

I do not use switches on the battery because they are not suitable for high amperage and contacts burn out very quickly. Instead, I switch off the battery in the BMS before disconnecting the cable, which is cheaper and safer, and everything is equipped with a fuse for emergencies.

Do you need a dedicated energy meter in the fuse box to determine power generation and manage battery charging?

This depends on your setup. If connected parallel to your house set, yes. If solar panels are connected to the AC output, the multiplus can measure this itself. In my case, all energy, including the solar panels, runs through the multiplus, so it can measure and decide whether the battery needs to be charged or power should go back to the grid.

Why is a 30-40W lamp better than a 10W lamp when pre-charging multiple inverters?

Each multiplus uses about 10W. A 10W lamp can charge the capacitors and keep them full while one is on standby, but three inverters and the Cerbo together ask for more power and drain current faster than a 10W lamp can supply, so the voltage will not get high enough and it will still spark. A 30-40W lamp provides enough energy to charge them and keep them full when the whole set starts.

Are recent JK BMS models equipped with an automatic pre-charge function, or is the lamp method always better?

There are models that can do that. You have to switch off the output in the BMS and then use pre-charge, and then switch on the BMS when connected. Personally, I prefer control and see a light bulb as failproof.

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