Build · Home battery
Building a Home Battery Setup and Pre-Charging MultiPlus
I installed the first battery pack into the steel cabinet, wired the cables to the Lynx distributor using a hydraulic crimp tool, and safely pre-charged the MultiPlus capacitors with a 60V bulb before powering the system on.
By RobbertPosted
Playing loads the video from YouTube.
9.8k views on YouTube · Open on YouTube (Robbert DIY projects)
Welcome back to my home battery build video series where I take you step by step through what I do right, what I do wrong, and what we can all learn from. The three MultiPlus units, the Lynx busbar, and the Cerbo are already mounted on the wall with the cables neatly tucked away in cable ducts. An extra main switch and a 25 A residual current circuit breaker are also installed to keep things safe and controllable.
Today I am adding the first battery pack to the storage cabinet underneath the inverters and connecting it to the busbar. Because the MultiPlus capacitors are completely empty, connecting them directly would cause a huge energy surge that could damage cables, fuses, or the BMS. I will show you how to use a 60V incandescent light bulb to pre-charge the capacitors and prevent a massive spark.
Steps
Step 1: Reviewing current setup and safety components
The three MultiPlus units, the Lynx busbar, and the Cerbo are all mounted on the wall with the cables neatly tucked into cable ducts. I installed an extra main switch at the top so I can safely cut off the power coming from the meter cupboard. Next to it is a 25 A residual current circuit breaker to protect the cable between the shed and the meter cupboard.
The MultiPlus units are connected with 70 mm square cables, which many consider too thick for this setup, but I prefer cables a bit too thick rather than too thin. I will also use a thermal camera to check for any hot spots or warm cables beforehand.
What I used
Item Amount Notes MultiPlus unit 3 Mounted on the wall Cerbo 1 Connected Main switch 1 Placed at the top Residual current circuit breaker 1 25 A Cable multiple 70 mm square Step 2: Custom components and battery cabinet adjustment
The shunt is homemade using a 3D printer, which saved a lot of money while keeping the same quality to calculate current flow. The distribution is also a modified power in unit that lacks indicator lights for blown fuses, and the Victron Mega fuses will later be replaced by EF3 fuses. The battery cabinet stores the battery packs built in earlier videos.
However, the battery pack became too wide with the cables on top, making the BMS on the side unreachable, so I moved the BMS to the front of the box.
What I used
Item Amount Notes Shunt 1 3D printed Power in distribution 1 Modified Mega fuse multiple Victron, to be replaced by EF3 fuses BMS 1 Moved to the front Step 3: Drilling cable holes in the steel cabinet
I need to run the battery cables outside the closed cabinet by drilling a couple of holes in the top. To prevent the metal from cutting the cables and causing a short circuit, I will equip the holes with 3D-printed protection rings and rubber printed caps. The battery pack is already heavy and inside the cabinet, so I must be extremely careful not to let any metal splinters fall into the battery pack while drilling.
What I used
Item Amount Notes Protection ring 2 3D printed Rubber printed cap 2 For cable protection Step 4: Routing negative and positive cables
With the holes ready, I start cabling by routing the negative power cable from the bottom of the cabinet through the hole, up the cable duct, and to the bottom of the Lynx busbar. I do the exact same thing for the positive cable, running it via the other hole and behind the cabinet into the cable duct. The battery cables enter the top of the cabinet, run down the side, and connect to the battery poles at the bottom.
My fuse holders double as battery poles for both positive and negative, which is an extra piece of safety for my peace of mind.
What I used
Item Amount Notes Negative cable 1 Routed through cable duct to busbar Positive cable 1 Routed behind cabinet to busbar Step 5: Stripping and crimping cable lugs
To connect the cables to the power in, I measure the jacket depth, strip a piece of the cable, and insert it into a claw cable lug with no stray wires sticking out. I use a hydraulic crimping tool bought from AliExpress, which is a super nice and cheap tool that does the job perfectly. I close the valve on the tool, pump it until it tightly wraps around the lug, and then open the valve to release a neat crimped lug.
I skip using a shrink sleeve for this video demonstration and just set it up without one.
What I used
Item Amount Notes Cable lug multiple Claw type Hydraulic crimping tool 1 From AliExpress Step 6: Connecting cables to the Lynx busbar and battery pack
I use a 13 mm socket to loosen the bolts on the power in, place the negative cable directly on the main carrier without washers or nuts in between, and add a washer, spring washer, and nut. Viewers in the comments always debate the exact names of these washers, which led to some funny discussions. I tighten the nut with the socket and recommend using a torque wrench.
Next, I cut the negative cable to length at the bottom of the cabinet, crimp another lug on it, and connect it to the battery pack negative terminal through the BMS. I repeat the exact same process for the positive cable.
What I used
Item Amount Notes Socket 13 mm 1 For loosening and tightening bolts Washer multiple Used on terminals Spring washer multiple Used on terminals Nut multiple Used on terminals Torque wrench 1 Recommended for final tightening Step 7: Pre-charging the MultiPlus capacitors with a bulb
The MultiPlus units currently have zero voltage because their internal capacitors are completely empty. Connecting the battery directly would send a massive energy surge, potentially damaging cables, fuses, or the BMS, so the units must be pre-charged the first time. The busbar reads 0V, while the battery reads 51.2V.
I made a simple pre-charge tool using a small lamp fitting, two crocodile clip wires, and a 60V 10W incandescent light bulb that acts as a resistor. I connect one crocodile clip to the negative fuse and touch the positive cable with the other clip through the bulb, which makes the bulb light up and slowly charges the capacitors without causing a loud spark.
Once the voltage rises safely, I connect the positive cable directly to the battery pack without any sparks.
What I used
Item Amount Notes Incandescent light bulb 1 60V, 10W Lamp fitting with crocodile clips 1 Homemade pre-charge tool Step 8: Powering on the MultiPlus units
Now that all the cables are securely attached without pulling any sparks, power is supplied to the MultiPlus units. I flip the front switch forward, and I see all the indicator lights start blinking to show they are turning on. Before doing anything else, I need to adjust and update the firmware, which is a great topic for the next video to keep things concise and focused.
What I used
Item Amount Notes MultiPlus unit 3 Powered on Step 9: Takeaways
Always protect drilled holes in steel cabinets with rings to prevent cable damage.
A hydraulic crimping tool from AliExpress makes solid and clean cable lugs.
Pre-charging empty inverter capacitors with a 60V bulb prevents dangerous sparks and protects equipment.
Updating the firmware is the necessary next step before configuring the system further.
Everything I used
| Item | Amount | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| MultiPlus unit | 3 + 3 | Mounted on the wall; Powered on |
| Cerbo | 1 | Connected |
| Main switch | 1 | Placed at the top |
| Residual current circuit breaker | 1 | 25 A |
| Cable | multiple | 70 mm square |
| Shunt | 1 | 3D printed |
| Power in distribution | 1 | Modified |
| Mega fuse | multiple | Victron, to be replaced by EF3 fuses |
| BMS | 1 | Moved to the front |
| Protection ring | 2 | 3D printed |
| Rubber printed cap | 2 | For cable protection |
| Negative cable | 1 | Routed through cable duct to busbar |
| Positive cable | 1 | Routed behind cabinet to busbar |
| Cable lug | multiple | Claw type |
| Hydraulic crimping tool | 1 | From AliExpress |
| Socket 13 mm | 1 | For loosening and tightening bolts |
| Washer | multiple | Used on terminals |
| Spring washer | multiple | Used on terminals |
| Nut | multiple | Used on terminals |
| Torque wrench | 1 | Recommended for final tightening |
| Incandescent light bulb | 1 | 60V, 10W |
| Lamp fitting with crocodile clips | 1 | Homemade pre-charge tool |
System Powered On
The battery pack and the MultiPlus units are successfully connected and powered on without any sparks. In the next video, I will work on updating the firmware.
Questions from YouTube viewers
Asked in the comments under the video, answered by Robbert.
Is the sparking normal when connecting the inverter, and how can it be prevented?
Yes, that is normal. The multiplus has capacitors that load within milliseconds when the battery is connected, which causes the spark. Other inverters might not have this. Using a light bulb in series acts as a resistor, causing the capacitors to load slowly instead of directly, preventing sparks and improving lifespan.
How do you disconnect the battery from the inverter without causing a spark, and do you use switches or fuses?
I do not use switches on the battery because they are not suitable for high amperage and contacts burn out very quickly. Instead, I switch off the battery in the BMS before disconnecting the cable, which is cheaper and safer, and everything is equipped with a fuse for emergencies.
Do you need a dedicated energy meter in the fuse box to determine power generation and manage battery charging?
This depends on your setup. If connected parallel to your house set, yes. If solar panels are connected to the AC output, the multiplus can measure this itself. In my case, all energy, including the solar panels, runs through the multiplus, so it can measure and decide whether the battery needs to be charged or power should go back to the grid.
Why is a 30-40W lamp better than a 10W lamp when pre-charging multiple inverters?
Each multiplus uses about 10W. A 10W lamp can charge the capacitors and keep them full while one is on standby, but three inverters and the Cerbo together ask for more power and drain current faster than a 10W lamp can supply, so the voltage will not get high enough and it will still spark. A 30-40W lamp provides enough energy to charge them and keep them full when the whole set starts.
Are recent JK BMS models equipped with an automatic pre-charge function, or is the lamp method always better?
There are models that can do that. You have to switch off the output in the BMS and then use pre-charge, and then switch on the BMS when connected. Personally, I prefer control and see a light bulb as failproof.
More from Home battery
- BuildDIY Victron Lynx Shunt: Save 200 Euros with Extra Options31 October 2025I built a custom Victron Lynx Shunt housing with a 3D printer, replacing the expensive Lynx shunt with a cheaper SmartShunt and adding custom options to save money and improve functionality.Read the post
- UpgradeVictron SOC Floor Lamp V2 Firmware Update30 August 2026I updated the Victron SOC floor lamp to version 2 firmware so it works with the new Victron token login system instead of the old VRM username and password.Read the post
- Lessons learnedMy DIY Journey from Childhood Electronics to Victron Power and Custom Projects2022I answer viewer questions about my background, discuss my self-taught electronics journey, review past DIY projects ranging from arcade machines and custom cars to a home Droomvlucht ride and a PC game, and address viewer feedback on my Victron battery setup.Read the post
