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DIY Victron Lynx Shunt: Save 200 Euros with Extra Options
I built a custom Victron Lynx Shunt housing with a 3D printer, replacing the expensive Lynx shunt with a cheaper SmartShunt and adding custom options to save money and improve functionality.
By RobbertPosted
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15k views on YouTube · Open on YouTube (Robbert DIY projects)
In the previous video, I showed the multiple-plus busbars, and in this episode, I show how I replace the smart Victron Lynx Shunt with a self-built unit. This saves me about 200 euros and allows me to add extra options, choosing between two different setups and adding a battery switch and safety fuses.
The original Victron Lynx Shunt VE.Can costs about 344.95 euros, while the Victron Energy SmartShunt 500A costs 89.95 euros. Many people have problems with the Lynx Shunt, so I chose the SmartShunt which works well for most people and adds Bluetooth support.
I designed a 3D-printed housing in RAL 5015 color to match the original Victron RAL 5012 look as closely as possible. This housing fits a 500A battery switch and lets me run busbars either above or below the shunt for a clean setup.
Steps
Step 1: Comparing the Lynx Shunt and SmartShunt Options
I looked at the price difference between the Victron Lynx Shunt which is around 300 euros and the SmartShunt which is around 80 euros. Many people have problems with the Lynx Shunt while the SmartShunt works well for most users, so I chose the SmartShunt.
I planned two mounting options for my 3D printed housing. Option one places the busbar on top and the SmartShunt below, and option two places the SmartShunt below and the switch above.
What I used
Item Amount Notes Victron Lynx Shunt VE.Can 1 Original expensive unit costing about 345 euros Victron Energy SmartShunt 500A 1 Cheaper alternative costing about 90 euros with bluetooth Step 2: Adding a Battery Switch and Soft Start Protection
I added an optional battery switch to the housing. When the switch is open and not connected, I can run a wire from the battery through the switch and a 24V lamp to the output.
When connecting the MultiPlus inverter to the battery pack, a huge rush of energy flows to charge the capacitors, which can cause sparks, burn contact points, or overload the BMS. The lamp acts as a resistor so energy flows gently to charge the capacitors, acting as a soft start without sparks.
Warning
This switch option does not fit if you place a busbar directly on top without leaving space for the lamp before connecting cables.
What I used
Item Amount Notes Battery switch 1 500A battery switch used to disconnect power 24V lamp 1 Acts as a resistor for soft start protection Step 3: Printing and Assembling the 3D Printed Housing
I started by printing the bottom and lid in RAL 5015, which is close to Victron's RAL 5012. I removed the plastic cap and sawed off the 20mm mounting legs of the 500A battery switch to leave a flat bottom, then screwed it onto the mounting holes.
Next, I mounted the SmartShunt underneath the switch, which fits tightly into place. I made custom busbars from 30 by 8mm copper flat plates, cutting pieces to size to fit my layout.
What I used
Item Amount Notes 3D printed bottom and lid 1 Printed in RAL 5015 filament 500A battery switch 1 Mounted inside the housing Copper flat plates 2 30x8mm plates for making busbars Step 4: Adding a Class T Fuse and Busbars
For larger setups with multiple MultiPlus units, I designed an extra 3D print model to add a Class T fuse. This lets me use a straight busbar without bends so the distribution and busbar sit on the same level where the Class T fuse makes the bridge.
I used an M10 bolt, spring washer, and nut to secure the Class T fuse to the busbar. The fuse sits higher than the busbar itself, ensuring clean alignment with the power distribution.
What I used
Item Amount Notes Class T fuse 1 Provides heavy-duty circuit protection M10 bolts, nuts and washers 1 For securing busbars and fuses 3D printed fuse holder 1 Aligns the Class T fuse with the busbar Step 5: Wiring the SmartShunt and Busbars
I connected the red power cable to the connector on the SmartShunt and the positive terminal of the busbar. The minus terminal of the SmartShunt connects automatically to the connector where it is screwed tight.
When using the standard cap, there is still a hole for the switch. I also provided a download for a cap without the switch hole if you prefer a clean look without a switch.
Tip
If you mount the Lynx Power In upside down, you can use an extra sticker so text remains right-side up.
What I used
Item Amount Notes Red power cable 1 Connects SmartShunt to the busbar positive terminal Step 6: Takeaways
Using a SmartShunt instead of a Lynx Shunt saves money and adds Bluetooth.
A 3D printed housing allows you to match the original Victron design and layout.
A soft start circuit with a lamp prevents damaging power surges and sparks.
Adding custom copper busbars and Class T fuses improves safety and reliability.
Everything I used
| Item | Amount | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Victron Lynx Shunt VE.Can | 1 | Original expensive unit costing about 345 euros |
| Victron Energy SmartShunt 500A | 1 | Cheaper alternative costing about 90 euros with bluetooth |
| Battery switch | 1 | 500A battery switch used to disconnect power |
| 24V lamp | 1 | Acts as a resistor for soft start protection |
| 3D printed bottom and lid | 1 | Printed in RAL 5015 filament |
| 500A battery switch | 1 | Mounted inside the housing |
| Copper flat plates | 2 | 30x8mm plates for making busbars |
| Class T fuse | 1 | Provides heavy-duty circuit protection |
| M10 bolts, nuts and washers | 1 | For securing busbars and fuses |
| 3D printed fuse holder | 1 | Aligns the Class T fuse with the busbar |
| Red power cable | 1 | Connects SmartShunt to the busbar positive terminal |
Cost Overview and Final Thoughts
Building your own Lynx Shunt setup saves a lot of money compared to buying the original parts. A setup without a Class T fuse costs about 148 euros in materials, saving 197 euros. Adding a Class T fuse brings the total to 198 euros, saving 147 euros. A setup with a switch costs about 150 euros, saving 195 euros.
In the next video, I will show how to build a 16kWh LiFePO4 battery pack for 1200 euros.
Questions from YouTube viewers
Asked in the comments under the video, answered by Robbert.
What kind of filament did you use to 3D print the enclosure?
I print everything in PETG and later painted it with RAL 5012 spray paint for a neater finish.
Does the standard VE.Direct cable fit properly inside the 3D-printed enclosure?
The large connector with the molded part goes in a bit harder. I carefully cut away some plastic from the connector with a knife, but you can also remove a small piece from the print so it fits easily.
Can I order one of these custom builds from you?
No, unfortunately not. The projects and videos take a lot of time to make, so I do not have the availability to build them for others.
How did you bend the copper plates to get the right busbar shape?
I put the copper strips between a vice and used a little hammer to tap them into the exact same shape as the print.
What type of Class T fuse do you recommend using?
The fuse rating should be less than your cables can handle and more than you expect to use. For example, if your cables can handle 250A and you continuously load up to 180A, then 200A is a good size. In my case, I have a 300A fuse in the busbar.
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