Build · Swimming pool heating

Building a 15 kW Swimming Pool Heater from Solar Surplus

I am building a powerful 15 kW pool heater using five modified Hot Splash heat pumps connected to my solar panel surplus. In this first part, I modify the electronics, add a fan dimmer, wire them to switches, and connect the water lines.

By RobbertPosted

15KW zwembad verwarming van solar overschot, 5x hotsplash #intex #bestway #hotsplash

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I find it a waste to feed my extra solar energy back into the grid for almost nothing. Instead, I want to use that surplus energy to heat my subtropical swimming pool to 40 degrees Celsius using 15 kW of total heating power.

For previous years, I used a single Hot Splash heat pump from Duratech, which consumes about 500 W and heats 3000 W. I now want to make a totem pole of five units to reach a maximum of 2.5 kW power draw and 15 kW heating output. These heat pumps are compact and heat well, but they have a fundamental flaw where rain and pool splashes get behind the touch display sticker and ruin the controller circuit board. To solve this, I buy secondhand units on Marktplaats with broken displays, strip out all the original electronics, and wire the compressors and fans directly so I can control them myself.

Steps

  1. Step 1: Stripping the original electronics and housing

    I start by removing the screws at the back and near the display to take off the hard-to-remove housing. Inside, I find the compressor, the cold side of the radiator, and the warm side at the bottom where the water runs. Water often gets onto the power plug, runs down into the casing, and destroys the controller from underneath.

    Since the controller is screwed in from the bottom, I just break it off to get to it. I no longer need any of the original circuitry, reset buttons, control boards, or temperature sensors.

  2. Step 2: Rewiring the compressor and fan separately

    After cutting away the old controller, I remove the power cable by cutting it off to make the system safer with fewer cables. I drill two holes in the side, making sure not to hit the internal air conditioning lines, and push a new power cable inside. The fan uses two black wires, which I connect to the new power cable using terminal blocks, and I attach its earth wire to the metal casing with a crimped eyelet.

    I mark this fan cable with a piece of green insulation tape so I can easily identify it later. Then I connect another power cable to the red and blue wires of the compressor and put the housing back together.

    Warning

    Watch out for internal air conditioning lines when drilling holes in the side of the casing.

  3. Step 3: Testing individual components

    With the modifications complete, I can now control the fan and compressor independently. I test the fan by plugging its green-taped cable into a temporary test cable, which immediately makes the loud fan spin. Next, I test the compressor by plugging in its cable, and I can hear it humming and the gas hissing, which confirms the system works.

    I repeat this entire modification process on all three heat pumps while hunting for two more cheap units on Marktplaats.

    Warning

    Do not run the compressor for too long without the fan running and without water flowing through it, because it cannot cool itself.

  4. Step 4: Installing a dimmer for the fan

    The heat pump fans make a lot of noise, so I use a small, cheap dimmer to turn down the motor's rotational speed and make it significantly quieter. I connect the green fan cable's neutral and live wires to the dimmer, and put a normal plug on the dimmer's input. Dimming the motor slows it down and reduces the noise for the neighborhood, and although its efficiency drops a tiny bit, I do not mind because I am using free solar surplus energy.

    What I used

    ItemAmountNotes
    dimmer1Small and cheap motor speed controller
  5. Step 5: Mounting the heat pumps on a trolley with TPU feet

    Because stacking five heat pumps on top of each other will become extremely heavy, I place a wooden platform on a trolley cart to hold them. The heat pumps have a curved top, so I provide 3D designs for replacement feet that you can print in TPU and glue underneath to make them level.

    What I used

    ItemAmountNotes
    trolliewagentje1Trolley cart for mobility
    wooden platform1Mounted on the trolley
    TPU feetmultiple3D printed replacement feet for the bottom
  6. Step 6: Wiring multiple fans to the dimmer and Wago blocks

    I mount an electrical junction box on the side of the setup for the wiring. A main power cable comes in at the bottom and splits using three Wago blocks for earth, live, and neutral. The live and neutral feed the input of the dimmer, and the dimmer's output goes to another set of three Wago blocks that connect to all the fan wires.

    I also connect all the fan earth wires together and link them to the main plug's earth.

    What I used

    ItemAmountNotes
    elektrodosje1Electrical junction box mounted on the side
    Wago blocksmultipleUsed to split power lines
  7. Step 7: Installing toggle switches for the compressors

    I install five toggle switches inside the casing, which are rated for 6 A max, making them more than enough for the heat pumps. I connect all the switches to a permanent live wire from the incoming main power cable. Then I connect the live wires coming from the compressors to the back of each toggle switch, while connecting all the compressor neutral wires to the main neutral distribution block.

    What I used

    ItemAmountNotes
    toggle switches5AliExpress switches rated for 6 A max
  8. Step 8: Testing the multi-unit switch setup

    With everything wired up, I plug the main power cable into the outlet and test the system. When I turn the dimmer knob, the fan motors spin up, and I can adjust them to a quieter speed without blowing everything off the table. Then I test the toggle switches one by one to make sure each compressor kicks in properly.

    Later, I plan to link these switches to my smart home system so that as my solar panels export more power, more heat pumps automatically turn on.

  9. Step 9: Connecting insulated water hoses

    For the water lines, I use 23 mm pool hoses that are flexible, rubber, and have a long lifespan, secured with 32 mm hose clamps. I wrap a bit of insulation tape around the ends of the pump connections because my personal experience shows it seals even better than a rubber ring. Since the fans blow out freezing cold air that would cool down the water inside the hoses, I slide foam insulation pipes over the pool hoses to protect them from the cold draft.

    What I used

    ItemAmountNotes
    pool hosemultiple23 mm flexible rubber hose
    hose clampsmultiple32 mm size
    isolation tape1Used around pump connections for a better seal
    isolation pipemultipleFoam insulation tubes for the hoses
  10. Step 10: Takeaways

    • Used Hot Splash heat pumps have a design flaw where water gets behind the display sticker and ruins the circuit board.

    • Removing the original faulty electronics allows manual control of the compressor and fan.

    • A cheap motor dimmer makes the loud cooling fans much quieter for the neighborhood.

    • Foam insulation tubes protect the water hoses from being cooled down by the fan exhaust.

    • Three connected heat pumps successfully heated 12 cubic meters of pool water by 10 to 11 degrees in less than a day.

Everything I used

ItemAmountNotes
dimmer1Small and cheap motor speed controller
trolliewagentje1Trolley cart for mobility
wooden platform1Mounted on the trolley
TPU feetmultiple3D printed replacement feet for the bottom
elektrodosje1Electrical junction box mounted on the side
Wago blocksmultipleUsed to split power lines
toggle switches5AliExpress switches rated for 6 A max
pool hosemultiple23 mm flexible rubber hose
hose clampsmultiple32 mm size
isolation tape1Used around pump connections for a better seal
isolation pipemultipleFoam insulation tubes for the hoses

First Test Results

I set up the first three units on my 3-meter wide and 1.2-meter deep pool, which holds about 12 cubic meters of water. The pool water was 19 degrees Celsius in the morning, and after running the heater for almost a full day, it reached 30 degrees Celsius. Heating 12 cubic meters of water by 10 to 11 degrees in half a day makes this mission a complete success.

I will now quickly search Marktplaats for units number four and five, add the final decorations, and set up the smart home automation to control the heaters based on my solar generation.

Back to Swimming pool heating

Guides and calculators for the systems in this project.