Build · Swimming pool heating

Formwork, Insulation, and Liner Installation

I installed the underground pipes, PIR insulation panels, and the pool liner, and dealt with a torn liner at the end.

By RobbertPosted

Mini subtropisch zwemparadijs deel 4 (Bekisting, isolatie en liner) zelfbouw zwembad (Intex/Bestway)

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In this episode, I work on the formwork, underground pipes, and insulation for my subtropical swimming pool garden. I dig 60 cm deep trenches, run PVC pipes for water and cables, and install 10 cm thick PIR insulation panels around the pool.

After securing the insulation and filling the pool partially with water to create counter pressure for the styrocrete pour, I run into a major setback when a tear appears in the liner.

Steps

  1. Step 1: Weather conditions and fast progress

    The weather is currently letting us down a bit. Even with the bad weather, the work is moving forward in big steps.

  2. Step 2: Digging trenches and laying PVC pipes

    I am working on trenches that are 60 cm deep. Through these pipes, the water pipes run between the pool and the pump house. On the outside of the pool wall, wooden boxes go 60 cm deep into the ground and connect to the PVC pipes.

    The pipes come out in the box so the water supply runs straight through to the next pipe and comes out in the other box. The skimmer return also uses this pipe. I use thick PVC pipes so the hoses do not touch the ground directly, which prevents heat loss.

    The space between the PVC pipe and the hoses provides good insulation to prevent frost. At 60 cm deep, the pipes will not freeze in winter, though it is still better to pump them empty. Power and internet cables can also run through these same tubes.

    If a pipe leaks in the future or I want to change something, flex stores mean I can no longer reach underneath. These pipes let me access them from point to point to replace a pipe, change something, or pull something extra.

    What I used

    ItemAmountNotes
    PVC pipeseveralUsed to house water pipes and cables
  3. Step 3: Connecting pool hoses

    The pool will be connected using black rubber hoses that are also used for ponds. These hoses are 32 mm and are perfect for a swimming pool.

    What I used

    ItemAmountNotes
    Black rubber hoseseveral32 mm pond hoses for pool connection
  4. Step 4: Installing wooden boxes for hollow spaces

    The wooden boxes are screwed against the outside of the pool wall. They are in direct contact with the outside, so I just barely managed to fit them in. This keeps hollow spaces in the concrete so I can adjust things at the injectors or skimmer later if needed.

    These wooden boxes prevent the skimmers from getting stuck in the concrete. It is important to seal the edges around the pipes well so concrete or styrocrete cannot run between the wood and the PVC pipes. The pipe in the ground is already glued, so I can throw the hole shut with sand to stop styrocrete from getting in.

    What I used

    ItemAmountNotes
    Wooden boxseveralPlaced against the pool wall
  5. Step 5: Placing PIR insulation panels

    The 10 cm thick PIR insulation panels are made to go against the inner wall of the pool. This entire space will be completely filled with styrocrete. I placed all the PIR panels on the outside against the pool to help insulate the bad.

    What I used

    ItemAmountNotes
    PIR panelseveral10 cm thick insulation panels
  6. Step 6: Dealing with wind during recording

    It is a bit windy while I am recording this video. I hope I am a bit easier to understand now despite the wind blowing.

  7. Step 7: Securing sandwich panels and positioning posts

    I pulled a garden hose around the sandwich panels to pull them tightly against the pool. Where needed, I used a screwdriver to tighten a piece so it pulls nice and tight. It is important that these posts are in the right place, especially for the metal top finishing, and I already accounted for this when centering the PIR panels.

    What I used

    ItemAmountNotes
    Garden hose1Used to pull sandwich panels tight
    Screwdriver1Used to tighten panels
  8. Step 8: Removing the blue rim and placing the liner

    It is time to remove the blue rim so I can place the liner in the pool. I fill the pool 2/3 with water to create counter pressure from the inside out. A day later, with a small layer of water running, I work out the wrinkles.

    What I used

    ItemAmountNotes
    Liner1Placed inside the pool
  9. Step 9: Reattaching the blue rim and discovering a liner tear

    I am putting the blue rim back on the pool now that the brackets are screwed on. While doing this, I hear a sound I do not want to hear. There is a tear in the liner causing the water to run out.

    Tomorrow I will go to the store to get a repair patch and test patch it closed. A new liner is coming next year anyway, so this does not matter at all for this one.

    What I used

    ItemAmountNotes
    Blue rim1Reattached to the pool
    Repair patch1To be bought tomorrow for a temporary fix
  10. Step 10: Takeaways

    • Underground PVC pipes protect water hoses from freezing and ground contact.

    • Wooden boxes maintain hollow spaces around skimmers and injectors for future adjustments.

    • Ten centimeter thick PIR panels and styrocrete insulate the pool.

    • Filling the pool with water provides necessary counter pressure during formwork.

    • A liner tear occurred at the end, which will be temporarily patched.

Everything I used

ItemAmountNotes
PVC pipeseveralUsed to house water pipes and cables
Black rubber hoseseveral32 mm pond hoses for pool connection
Wooden boxseveralPlaced against the pool wall
PIR panelseveral10 cm thick insulation panels
Garden hose1Used to pull sandwich panels tight
Screwdriver1Used to tighten panels
Liner1Placed inside the pool
Blue rim1Reattached to the pool
Repair patch1To be bought tomorrow for a temporary fix

Liner tear setback

I encountered a major setback with a tear in the liner, but I will patch it temporarily since a new liner is planned for next year.

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