Build · Swimming pool heating
Building a DIY Solar Pool Heater
I build a solar pool heater using a wooden frame, black paint, 100 meters of flexible PVC hose, copper pipe fittings, and a transparent plastic cover.
By RobbertPosted
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My above-ground pool is kept warm by a solar heater panel that measures about 3 square meters, or 1.52m by 2.44m. The sun warms the pipes, and cold pool water is pumped through them so it warms up by about 3 degrees per rotation. Commercial heat exchangers cost a lot to buy and use about 3,000 watts of electricity a day, which is why I prefer solar heating.
Since my first heater works so well, I am building a second one with about 1.5 times more pipe length to make it even more powerful. I will use simple and cheap materials to build a wooden box, paint it black, lay down flexible PVC tubing in four parallel lines, and cover it with transparent foil.
Steps
Step 1: Gathering the materials
I gather all the materials needed to build the new solar heater panel. Having the right supplies ready makes the build much easier and keeps costs low.
What I used
Item Amount Notes Hardwood plywood sheet 1 9mm thick, 1.22m by 2.24m, moisture-resistant Wooden slats 3 27mm by 44mm, 2.70m long Black paint 1 pot From Action, cheap and good quality Flexible PVC hose 100m 19mm thick Step 2: Cutting the wooden slats to size
I start by sawing the wooden slats to the correct dimensions for the frame. I need two lengths of 2.44m to match the plate length, and two width pieces based on the plate width minus the raised edges.
What I used
Item Amount Notes Wooden slats 3 2.70m long Step 3: Assembling the wooden frame
I screw the first side rail onto the plywood plate from the bottom up into the balk. I made a silly mistake here by calculating only one slat width instead of two, so I had to cut it again to 1.16.6m instead of 1.19.3m. After fixing this measurement, I finish screwing the wooden box together.
Warning
Remember to calculate the thickness of two slats instead of one when sizing your frame parts.
What I used
Item Amount Notes Screws Several Used from the bottom into the balk Step 4: Spraying the wooden box black
Once the wooden box is built, I give it a light coat of black paint so it is dark to begin with. This way I do not have to paint underneath the PVC pipes later on, which saves time. I use a cheap spray gun from Lidl and paint from Action, which gives great quality at a low cost.
What I used
Item Amount Notes Spray gun 1 Cheap model from Lidl Black paint 1 pot From Action Step 5: Unpacking and dividing the PVC hose
I unpack the 100-meter roll of flexible PVC hose and divide it into four equal pieces of about 25 meters each. Splitting the water flow over four pipes instead of one reduces water resistance so the pump does not have to work as hard.
What I used
Item Amount Notes Flexible PVC hose 100m Divided into four 25m pieces Step 6: Laying out and securing the PVC pipes
You can buy PVC clamps at the hardware store, but I printed mine and will put the design in the description. I place the first hose as far as possible against the edge, put a clip over it, and nail it down. I lay the next lines right next to each other, following the corners in a spiral until the whole box is filled.
I also add an extra 20 meters of hose to make the panel longer and more effective.
What I used
Item Amount Notes PVC pipe clamps Several 3D printed Flexible PVC hose 20m Extra length added Step 7: Connecting hose extensions with PVC glue
I take an extra 5-meter piece of 19mm hose and attach it using PVC glue to ensure a water-tight connection that will not leak. I am generous with the glue because fixing a leak later is a big job.
What I used
Item Amount Notes Flexible PVC hose 5m Extension piece PVC glue 1 For water-tight joints Step 8: Installing copper water connections
I use 12mm copper tubes glued to short pieces of garden hose, which provides a rubber seal that glues easily to PVC. I mark and drill 12mm holes in the frame, making sure not to hit the pipes underneath. I push the hoses through the holes to the back of the box and secure them with screws so they will not move when I attach external hoses later.
What I used
Item Amount Notes Copper tubes Several 12mm diameter Garden hose Short pieces Glued to copper tubes Drill 1 With 12mm bit and spade bit Step 9: Sealing with hot glue
I apply hot glue over the pipes and in between them to seal the maker wind-tight. Hot glue is also known as hot snot, and it helps keep the heat trapped inside the box.
What I used
Item Amount Notes Hot glue Several sticks Used for wind-proofing Step 10: Applying the second coat of paint
I vacuum the box clean and use the spray gun with Action paint to apply a second coat of black high-gloss paint. The black color absorbs a lot of heat from the sun. I let it dry overnight.
What I used
Item Amount Notes Spray gun 1 Lidl spray gun Black high-gloss paint 1 pot From Action Step 11: Covering the panel with transparent foil
The next day, I add a few blocks in the middle to prevent sagging and help water run off. I fold a transparent plastic sail over the solar heater and staple it to the bottom and sides. Sunlight passes through the plastic to heat the black pipes, while the plastic blocks cold wind from blowing the heat away.
What I used
Item Amount Notes Transparent plastic foil 1 Cover sheet Stapler 1 For securing the foil Blocks Several Placed in the middle to prevent sagging Step 12: Hooking up the pump and splitter
I place a 3,000 liter per hour submersible pump in the pool and run a green hose upward to a splitter that divides the water into four channels with separate valves. I secure the hoses to the PVC pipes using hose clamps and add pieces of electrical conduit around the ends to prevent the hoses from kinking.
What I used
Item Amount Notes Submersible pump 1 3,000 liters per hour capacity Green hose 1 Connects pump to splitter Splitter 1 Splits flow into four channels Hose clamps Several Secures connections Electrical conduit Short pieces Prevents hose kinking Step 13: Takeaways
Dividing the water flow across four parallel hoses reduces water resistance and helps the pump.
Painting the wooden box and PVC pipes black maximizes solar heat absorption.
Covering the panel with transparent plastic lets sunlight in while blocking cold wind.
Adding electrical conduit prevents the flexible hoses from kinking near the connections.
Everything I used
| Item | Amount | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Hardwood plywood sheet | 1 | 9mm thick, 1.22m by 2.24m, moisture-resistant |
| Wooden slats | 3 + 3 | 27mm by 44mm, 2.70m long; 2.70m long |
| Black paint | 1 pot + 1 pot | From Action, cheap and good quality; From Action |
| Flexible PVC hose | 100m + 100m + 20m + 5m | 19mm thick; Divided into four 25m pieces; Extra length added; Extension piece |
| Screws | Several | Used from the bottom into the balk |
| Spray gun | 1 + 1 | Cheap model from Lidl; Lidl spray gun |
| PVC pipe clamps | Several | 3D printed |
| PVC glue | 1 | For water-tight joints |
| Copper tubes | Several | 12mm diameter |
| Garden hose | Short pieces | Glued to copper tubes |
| Drill | 1 | With 12mm bit and spade bit |
| Hot glue | Several sticks | Used for wind-proofing |
| Black high-gloss paint | 1 pot | From Action |
| Transparent plastic foil | 1 | Cover sheet |
| Stapler | 1 | For securing the foil |
| Blocks | Several | Placed in the middle to prevent sagging |
| Submersible pump | 1 | 3,000 liters per hour capacity |
| Green hose | 1 | Connects pump to splitter |
| Splitter | 1 | Splits flow into four channels |
| Hose clamps | Several | Secures connections |
| Electrical conduit | Short pieces | Prevents hose kinking |
Summary and future plans
The new solar heater has about 1.5 times more pipe length than my first version and is much more powerful. Although the weather is not very sunny right now, I expect it to perform wonderfully once the sun comes out. In the future, I might build another version with exact kilowatt measurements and use these solar panels to heat my new large in-ground pool.
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